Naxos Town on Foot

     The welcoming icon of Naxos, doorway to Temple of Apollo

We made it out of Mykonos on Saturday, the 11th, when the Port Authority gave permission for boats to leave. Our fast boat, SeaJet2, sliced through the still-turbulent Aegean Sea and delivered us to the port in Naxos in good time. Before we docked, though, we noticed staff with medications in hand attending passengers and watched as several passengers lurched up the aisles clutching barf bags.

                                            SeaJet2 catamaran "fast boat"

Konstantinos, our host at the St. Vlassis Hotel, was exactly where he said he'd be when we disembarked, holding up his sign 150 meters past the taxis. We were so busy keeping our luggage from being swept off the dock, we missed seeing the icon of Naxos. The Portrara, the doorway to the ancient temple of Apollo, greets all who arrive by boat. We saw it later, venturing out across the causeway that joins the islet of Bacchus, where the arch sits. It was a perilous venture as, with the winds, the waves crashed and occasionally sprayed the narrow stone, seaweed-strewn walkway. 

After settling in our lovely room, we consulted Konstantinos for directions into the town center (about a 10-15 minute walk). He provided us with a good map and arranged for a rental car to be delivered that evening for our use on Sunday. 

We went off to explore, stopping at little businesses along the way, sampling coffees and a plate of dolmades, walking along the seafront and out to the arch. While searching for the Venetian Castle we'd heard about, we climbed many steps and went around in circles. We saw a poster that advertised a violin concert at the castle that night.

"Let's go! For once we're here before an event is over." We did locate the castle and found that we could buy the tickets before the performance, which would be held in the castle cellar at 8:30. Esmerelda, the helpful, knowledgeable Venetian Museum attendant and guide, drew us a map to get us to our hotel and back.

Following her instructions, we found our way, detouring for dinner at Elliniko Restaurant. We were back at the hotel in time to sign the papers for the rental car we'd use the next day.

                   The Venetian Castle stands out among the white buildings

Adding more layers of clothing for our evening trek, we headed back for the concert. Since we arrived early, Esmerelda treated us to a tour of the museum. It was built in the 13th century and was the seat of power for 300 years. The castle has been the home of the Della Rocha-Barozzi family since the early 1900s. 

The castle cellar proved to be a unique, intimate concert setting with excellent acoustics. For 12 Euros, we got music, history, and unlimited drinks! While the traditional Ouzo was offered, we opted for a tasty, strong drink that contained grappa, honey, cinnamon, and aromatic herbs, meant to be sipped like    a brandy. We went back for seconds at intermission.

Violinist Elena called for folks to come up so she could teach us a dance. Of course, our Annis, was up and onstage in a hurry.

Today, Monday, the 13th, the weather was perfect. Sunshine and moderate temperatures with cooling breezes off the Aegean Sea. 

For most of the day, we were down to shirtsleeves and sunblock. We chose a different route for our around-town hike and found ourselves in a beach neighborhood.

                                Little street of homes and hotels that led to the beach front

          

             Lots of families with children took advantage of the beautiful day

                                         "Do you think the water's cold, Judy?"

                       Cafés, taverns, restaurants along the seafront

                                                   Small boats near the port

We continued our hike into the northern part of Naxos, the pebble beach area known as Grotta.

                         Much more calm than it looked our first day here

                                      Apollo's Portara from the Grotta side

                   Church in Metropolis Square, the ancient site of Naxos Town

We were ready for food after a full day of sunshine and hiking. Dinner was at a seafront restaurant for local-caught fish cooked on the grill, where we enjoyed the food, the beer, and the view.

After the narrow, twisty walkways of Mykonos, we are finding our way around Naxos with no problem and once again appreciate how friendly and welcoming the Greek people are.